A detour to Gangtok (Sikkim) a.k.a.The land of mystic splendour

Gangtok from my hotel, Tashi Delek

For some, the thirst for adventure and journey to the unknown are hard to contain and when opportunity Knocks, I couldn’t let it pass without seeing the land of mystic splendor or Gangtok. Also, endearingly referred to as the Eight Sister States of North East India, Sikkim has been on my mind for a long time. It is perhaps because I had so many friends from my St. Stephen’s College days and D.U. days.  I still remember those fantastic Sikkim House Parties and Darjeeling Parties during our graduation years. The aggressive tourism promotion of the State in recent years might also have influenced me to explore this mystical place, and after some really picturesque photographs got uploaded by friends on Facebook, I was committed to this visit hook line and sinker.

Lifeline of Sikkim: The River Teesta

Enjoying a hearty breakfast at MG Road

Call it destiny or whatever, I became good friends with two government servants from Sikkim during a short training at Shillong and Bhopal. The two elegant ladies were responsible for the final decision to take a detour before reaching home from my long vacation. Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim has been on news for all the right reasons in recent times. It holds promises of being one of the greenest and environmentally caring Government and people. What I didn’t expect was the logistic of traveling to this remote region and its topography!  Like all North Eastern States of India, I found that the biggest challenge here was also accessibility and transportation. To reach Gangtok, one must travel by train or plane to Bagdogra, Siliguri from a limited number of Metros. There are shared taxis and Innova cars for hire and one must drive through Siliguri and Darjeeling (all in West Bengal) before closing in on to Sikkim. The drive to Sikkim goes through one of the most picturesque highways of India, all along the beautiful Teesta River. It takes you approximately 5 (five) hours to reach Gangtok from Bagdogra.

MG Road Gangtok, where the universe converge

Deorali Chorten, Adjacent to NIT.

Enjoying the waterfall at the creepy Shaman's place

The next generation monks at Namgyal Institute

A village stall selling Sikkimese Snacks 

Where prayers are written to the sentient beings 

The famous Changu Lake

A decorated Yak to attract the tourist at Changu Lake

While Imphal valley is elevated at approximately 786 M, Gangtok is about 1600 M above sea level. There are only 4 (four) districts in Sikkim, which are simply referred to as also North, South, East and West Sikkim. The sheer climb on the mountainous road meant getting used to high altitude and calm resilience to nature’s wrath like occasional landslides, earthquakes, torrential rains, etc…  and in my mind, it is the very essence or the source of the temperament and culture of North East people of India -  Quiet, Laid back, Tolerant, Resilient and Strong.

The centre of Universe for every traveler to Gangtok has to be M.G. Road or Mahatma Gandhi Road. The Government has cleverly invested in making it look like some European city centre or square where on the street corner, a makeshift stage is put up every evening for cultural and other entertainment shows. The streets are well decorated with flower beds and paved with tiles and bricks against the backdrop of fancy stores. Add a variety of restaurants and bars to go with the celebratory ambience in the evening and what do you get? Yes, the ace card that makes Sikkim such a great Tourist Destination is through the legalization of liquor manufactures and sales from which maximum revenue is generated, beside Tourism, Education and others.

Enjoying Rumtek Monastery with Chunni, another dearest friend & host

With Wangmu Sonam, one of the  dearest friend & host

Gangtok offers a treasure cove of beautiful architecture and style when one observes the magnificent monasteries and temples with keen eyes. For adventurers and hikers, there are some treks in the mountains that are worth sweating for. A memorable visit to Rumtek Monastery and window shopping in ubiquitous curio shops is fun to start with. Wai Wai and Maggi, beside Momos are the most favorite and cheap snacks to be taken with their tasty local Temi Tea while sightseeing. A visit to Namgyal Institute of Tibetology and Directorate of Handicrafts and Handloom could be a fulfilling experience intellectually and shopaholically!

Indo China border at Nathu La pass

For someone venturing in to this mountain, one cannot return home without a trip to the Indo-China border at Nathu La Pass. It is a full tour package, and tourists are obligated to pay some fees, submit 2 passport photographs and copy of I.D. or Adhaar card for identification to any travel agent without which a trip is not possible. This is one of the subtle and effective ways in which State Tourism generates income from visitors for the benefit of the local business. This full-fledged sight-seeing  include a stop-over at Baba Harbhajan Singh Memorial Temple and Changu Lake, where domesticated Yaks are used by the poor locals to attract tourist for a short ride and photography. Baba Harbhajan Singh’s story is an interesting one where this young soldier gets killed during the Indo China War and his spirit continued to haunt the place, helping Indian soldiers to avoid many catastrophes through dreams and signs. Such is the beliefs so strong that legends abound of his feats even after his death and so, the Indian Government decided to posthumously build a memorial temple, his personal properties and room kept intake and Train reservations made as well as his salaries paid till he attained the age of retirement till very recently!

My most favorite photograph of my last supper

Chung, the local wine of millet

An exquisite array of homecooked Sikkimese meal of rice, edible orchids, pork, herbs, mushroom, etc., all prepared in my honor by my beautiful and generous friends became the highlight of my short trip. That was when I could finally lay my greedy hands on some of the most delicious Sikimese cuisines I have ever tasted, taken with a traditional wine called “Chung” prepared with fermented millets and drank, using a bamboo straw . Another experience captured, another memory created for life, and a friendship that will be cherished during my lifetime. In due course, I also invited my friends to visit Manipur or Kangleipak (the name I prefer) and bade a warm farewell to some of the most hospitable people I have ever known in my life. I confess, I am one hell of a lucky person and I have such a great sense of gratitude for being surrounded by some of the best people I have the privilege of calling “MY GREAT FRIENDS” in this world, My playground.